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CoreXY 3d Printer – Wildbot


My CoreXY 3d printer that was my first build. From start to finish, I spent about six months planning and building it. I use the term ‘planning’ very loosely here. Honestly, it was more ignorance and enthusiasm than anything.

Here is a running Bill of Materials/Parts list for my ongoing CoreXY project. 

  • Titan Aero Extruder + Hot end
  • Motech 0.9°, 18 oz-in extruder motor
  • Noctua 40×10 heatsink fan
  • CHERRY E22 Snap Action Switches (end stops)
  • Delta Electronics BFB0312MA 30mm blower (qty: 2)
  • Rino 30:1 Gearbox w/NEMA 23 (Z axis)
  • OPTO22 575Di45-12 DC-AC SSR
  • DuetWifi 32bit Controller
  • EVGA 500W ATX PSU
  • THK RSR12ZM 470L (set of 2)
  • THK SRS12M 270L (set of 2)
  • E3d Hardened Steel Nozzle
  • MGN12 400mm Linear Rail Guide with MGN12H

CoreXY Upgrades

My X-carriage.My custom aluminum X-carriage.

I designed the front and rear plates in Draftsight. Then, I had a laser cutting service cut them out of 1/8″(3mm) aluminum.

I machined the top and bottom out of aluminum square tubing. Then, I milled two of the mounting holes for the top piece into 5mmx3.2mm slots. This way, it can be mounted to either an MGN12C or an MGN12H bearing block.

The front and rear plates attach to the top and bottom with M5 button head bolts. In order to eliminate the need for nuts, the mounting holes in the top and bottom pieces are tapped.

The slots in the plates are for attaching the drive belts. However, that put my drive belts way out of parallel. This will cause the belt tension to vary when the carriage changed direction. As a result, the belt might slip on the drive pulleys and cause print inaccuracies.

For now, I designed and printed some belt clamps that position the belts behind the plates enough to bring them back into parallel. I won’t share them here as they’re not what you would call elegant. You can find the .stl and .dxf files here.

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